citta ... a travel log as i visit the projects.

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Michael
Nov 01, 2008

Well, I thought getting into Humla was difficult. Getting out was much more difficult! Renu Chetri (the Journalist) Decided to leave wed. The 29th of Oct. She had a new job as senior Journalist at the Kathmandu Post starting on the 1st. The week we were in Humla was Tihar celebrations, which is a very big religious holiday for Nepali’s. Every day seemed to have another theme to it. Well, from what I could see, the overall holiday theme for the local men were drinking and gambling in the streets. Come to find out it wasn’t only Humla that had this festive atmosphere. In the early hours we all sat on the hospital porch drinking Black tea filled with Pepper and said our goodbyes to Renu. The conversation continued and we reminisced about all the adventures and stories we heard from locals. Slowly, realized the flight was much too late. Dr. Yeshe called the tower and asked what the problem was and if there is a flight. They didn’t know the answer. We stared at the horizon for a few more hours. The flight never appeared over the Himalayas Wednesday morning.

The next day David, Yeshe and I were also heading back. No flight! We got word that due to Tihar all the pilots got drunk and the planes never left Kathmandu. We got a phone call from the tower later on Thursday and they said definitely there would be a flight by next TUESDAY! We also were hoping for a random helicopter to show. Every day we took a walk to a new corner of Simikot, but never far enough away to prevent us from running back to catch a plane the minute we heard something on the horizon.

Finally, Saturday morning we got confirmation a flight had left Nepalganj and we had seats on it! We were all sad to leave Humla, but a refreshed to actually have a flight out. I guess it’s better then having drunk pilots driving the plane?

Michael
Oct 31, 2008

We heard that that a Government office was providing rice supplements to some of the Humla mountain people in central Simikot today. David Driver (the filmmaker) and Renu Chetri (Journalist for the Kathmandu Post) were eager to see what it was about. We all went into the market and met with the lively crowd gathered to collect some rice for the upcoming month. Women lined up to the left and Men to the right. In the center was a group of around 8 people ranging from a young girl to a middle-aged man. This group transported the rice from the Tibetan border to the Govt. Center in handmade Yak-wool Bags tied to 90 Goats! The goats circled about as the team untied them and poured them into larger Govt. Sacks. They were paid for each Kilo they transported.

The goat group was very photogenic and didn’t mind having their picture taken. One young boy just stared as I photographed him. So when David came over and said, “I would love to interview one of the goat team” I said this boy looks interested and calm.

We approached the boy. He had a turban wrapped around his head. His jacket was so warn the sleeves deteriorated mid arm and by his wrists was no more then Nylon threads. We asked his age and he said 16. The girl on the team looked 8! I showed him a few pictures that I took of him. I asked if he ever saw a camera. He shook his head no. I asked if he liked it and he smiled shyly and shook his head yes.

We questioned him about the difficult journey from Tibet and such difficult work at 16 yrs. old. He shrugged his shoulders and said it was all right, quite comfortable. We tried every angle to see show how difficult it was for him and his team to traverse the mountains in the cold, with the lack of food and clothing, sleeping outside. We tried everything. He said it was fine. He had some food, sometimes not enough, but that was OK. He said his family life was fine in the village and he was glad for the work. He faced each question with a solid calm that said, “I don’t have a problem”. So what was ours? Trying to prove he was unhappy without the things we considered comforts? I left that conversation learning more then he did from us.